Feeding backyard chickens: a practical guide for layer hens

So the coop is up, the names are chosen, and the morning visit to let the girls out has already become the best part of your day. The bit that trips most new chook owners up is the feed bin. Hens are simple to feed, but they are not bins. Get the basics right and you will have glossy feathers, strong shells and a steady supply of eggs.

Here is a plain-English guide to feeding backyard layers in Australia, with nothing you need to be a poultry scientist to follow.

Start with a complete layer feed, not scraps

The foundation of the diet should be a complete layer feed, not kitchen scraps with a bit of grain thrown in. A complete feed is formulated to cover the protein, energy, vitamins and minerals a hen needs across the whole day, so everything else is a bonus rather than a patch-up job.

Laucke Red Hen Layer 20kg is a premium layer and breeder food for all classes of breeding and laying poultry, made as a blend of whole and rolled grains with micro pellets. One 20 kg bag suits a small backyard flock well and keeps the feeder topped up without constant reordering.

Keep the feeder full rather than dishing out measured meals. Hens are good at self-regulating, and a hen that has to compete for a nearly empty feeder will simply stop laying as well.

How much does a laying hen actually eat?

Most laying hens get through roughly 100 to 120 g of feed a day, and a little more in cold weather or while they are moulting. As a rough rule, a 20 kg bag covers four hens for around six weeks.

Watch the birds rather than the book. A hen that is too thin has a sharp breastbone and a pale, tight comb. A hen that is carrying too much condition will look rounded over the chest and lay less. Adjust the amount of scratch and scraps first, then the feeder.

Grains and scratch are treats, not the diet

Scratch grains are brilliant for encouraging natural foraging and getting the flock moving, but they are lollies, not dinner. A small handful scattered in the afternoon is plenty for a backyard flock.

If you like to offer seeds as a scratch or foraging treat, Green Valley Black Sunflower 3.2kg is a bulk bag of black sunflower commonly used as a stockfeed and aviary ingredient. It is high in fat, so keep it to a light sprinkle rather than a bowl.

Calcium and strong eggshells

A laying hen pulls a serious amount of calcium out of her body every time she lays. Keep a small dish of shell grit or oyster shell available free choice, separate from the feeder, so each hen can top up as she needs. Do not mix it into the layer feed, and do not offer it to young birds that are not laying yet.

Thin or soft shells, or hens pecking at their own eggs, are usually the first sign that calcium or overall nutrition is short.

Water matters more than anything else in the bin

Hens drink more than most people expect, roughly a couple of hundred millilitres each a day, and far more on a hot day. Clean, cool water in a shaded spot beats any feed upgrade you can buy. In summer, check the drinker twice a day, and make sure it is not sitting in full sun.

Kitchen scraps: what is fine and what is not

Scraps are a nice way to use up vegetable peelings and let the flock scratch around, as long as they stay a small part of the diet.

• Fine in moderation: vegetable and fruit peelings, leafy greens, cooked rice or pasta, a little plain yoghurt.
• Avoid altogether: avocado, onion and garlic in any real quantity, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, and salty or fatty leftovers.
• Never: mouldy feed or scraps. Mould is a genuine risk to backyard birds.

Anything you would not eat yourself is not a good gift to the flock.

Moving from grower feed to layer feed

Pullets on grower feed should switch to layer feed before they start laying, usually somewhere around 18 to 20 weeks, or as soon as you see the first egg or the combs redden up. Breeder and layer feed is not suitable for very young chicks, so follow the age guidance on the bag.

Moulting and the seasonal reset

The annual moult is the one time your feed plan should change. Feathers are mostly protein, so keep the layer feed consistent, cut back the treats, and expect a pause in laying while the new coat comes through. Most hens come back into lay within a few weeks, and some take a fair bit longer.

A quick backyard checklist

• A complete layer feed as the base of the diet, with the feeder kept topped up.
• Shell grit or oyster shell available free choice in its own dish.
• Scraps and scratch limited to a small extra, not a meal replacement.
• Clean, cool water in shade, checked daily and twice on hot days.
• Feed stored dry, sealed and off the ground, away from mice.
• A quick weekly look at combs, feathers and shells, which tell you more about the diet than a bag label will.

Frequently asked questions

Can hens live on scraps alone? No. Scraps are inconsistent and rarely balanced, and a hen fed mostly on scraps will lay poorly and lose condition. Use a complete layer feed as the base and let scraps be a supplement.

Do I need to feed grit as well as layer feed? Keep shell grit or oyster shell available free choice for calcium. If your birds are on a complete feed, that already covers their basic mineral needs.

How long does a 20 kg bag last? For four hens eating around 110 g each a day, roughly six weeks. Adjust for flock size, weather and how generous you are with scratch.

Is bread okay for chickens? A little, occasionally, is not going to hurt them, but bread fills them up without feeding them. Keep it to a treat and keep the layers feed in front of them.

When should I switch to layer feed? Around 18 to 20 weeks for pullets, or when the first egg appears. Follow the age guidance on the bag for young stock.

Feeding a backyard flock is mostly about the boring things done well: a complete feed, clean water, a bit of grit and not too many treats. Everything else is a nice-to-have.